If your current planting aims imply plants that need good water drainage, I am sure you know how frustrating it is to have a garden that just won’t cooperate. Some plants can manage the excess water that comes about from being in an area that doesn’t drain right. In fact, it might just get them to blossom more lushly. All the same, other plants don’t make out as well, and it will get them to die a gruesome, bloated death. You should always find out about the drainage asked for every plant you buy, and make sure that it won’t conflict with any of the areas you are looking at planting it in.
In order to test how much water your designated plot of land of soil will retain, dig a hole roughly ten inches deep. Fill it with water, and come back in a day when all the water had vanished. Fill it back up once more. If the 2nd hole full of water isn’t gone in 10 hours, your soil has a low saturation point. This means that when water soaks into it, it will stick around for a long time before dispersing. This is unsufferable for almost any plant, and you are going to have to do something to remedy it if you want your plants to survive.
The common method for improve drainage in your garden is to create a raised bed vegetable garden. This involves creating a moulding for a small bed, and adding enough soil and compost to it to raise it above the rest of the yard by at least 5 inches. You’ll be astonished at how much your water drainage will be ameliorated by this small modification. If you ‘re planning to build a raised bed, your prospective region is either on grass or on dirt. For each of these sites, you should build it slightly differently.
If you want to take up a raised garden in a non grassy area, you won’t have much difficulty. Just find some sort of border to hold the dirt you will be adding. I’ve discovered that there is nothing that works quite as well as a few two by fours. After you’ve created the wall, you must put in the right amount soil and steer manure. Depending on how long you plan to wait before planting, you will want to adjust the ratio to allow for any dropping that may happen.
If you’re trying to establish a raised bed where sod already exists, you will have a slightly more hard time. You will need to tailor the sod around the perimeter of the garden, and flip it over. This may sound elementary, but you will need something with a very sharp edge to slice the edges of the sod and get under it. Once you have turned it all upside down, it is best to add a layer of straw to deter the grass from growing back up. After the layer of straw, just add all the soil and steer manure that a normal garden would want.
Planting your plants in your new region shouldn’t pose much trouble. It is essentially the same procedure as your common planting session. Just be sure that the roots don’t extent too far into the original ground level. The whole point of making the raised bed is to keep the roots out of the soil which saturates easily. Having long roots that expand that far completely destroys the point.
Once you have plants in your new bed, you’ll acknowledge an almost immediate advance. The added soil facilitates better root growth. At the same time, evaporation is prevented and disintegration is discouraged. All of these things added together makes for an ideal surround for almost any plant to grow in. So don’t be intimidated by the thought of setting the very topography of your yard. It is a simple process as I’m sure you’ve understood, and the long term results are worth every bit of work.